Buying and support: quick answers
Do I need a separate plastic base kit?
For a resin conversion, match the exact base kit and version specified on the product page. The base kit is sold separately unless the listing explicitly includes it. A full resin kit is normally a standalone project; check its Item Details for any exceptions. Compare full resin kits and conversion kits before ordering.
Are the painted models in the photos ready to display?
Painted display examples show what a completed build can look like. Read the individual listing for the contents supplied and assembly requirements; do not assume a painted example is included.
Does LeePlus Hobby ship from Canada?
No. LeePlus Hobby is a Canada-based business, but orders are not dispatched from Canada. Check our Shipping & Returns information and the delivery options at checkout for your destination.
How do I report a damaged or defective item?
Contact customerservice@leeplushobby.com within 14 days of delivery, with your order number and photos of the issue. Damaged or defective goods can be returned for a refund, with return shipping covered by the store. We do not offer exchanges. See the Refund Policy for the full terms and return instructions.
Where should I ask a building or compatibility question?
Use the LeePlus Community for public build discussions and kit or tool reviews. You can also read our community participation guide. For a specific order, missing parts or a return, email customer service and keep your order details private. Community suggestions are discussion, not a change to the store's product specifications or policies.
Resin casting quality and preparation
Good resin casting quality is not defined by whether every part is ready to paint straight from the box. Cast-resin kits always require preparation. The real measure of quality is how faithfully the cast preserves the sculpt, how consistently the parts were produced, and whether the necessary corrections stay within normal model-building work.
What makes a high-quality resin cast?
A good cast should give the builder a clean and accurate foundation. Look for:
- Crisp panel lines, edges, vents, textures, and other fine details
- Complete casting on thin fins, sharp tips, recessed areas, and undercuts
- Minimal mold shift, so details and edges line up correctly across the seam
- Few small pinholes and no large voids or missing sections
- Limited warping, especially on long weapons, armor panels, and structural parts
- Consistent left-and-right parts where the design is meant to be symmetrical
- Contact points and keyed connections that can be aligned through normal test fitting
Resin color alone does not indicate quality. Detail fidelity, dimensional consistency, and the actual condition of the parts matter much more.
Should a good resin kit require no sanding or putty?
No. Removing casting gates, cleaning seam lines, test fitting, filling an occasional pinhole, and correcting minor warping are normal parts of building a resin kit. “High quality” does not mean zero preparation.
More serious problems include heavy mold shift, repeatedly softened details, large internal voids, widespread surface pitting, major deformation, or misalignment that prevents the parts from being assembled without reconstructive work.
Why buy an original studio cast instead of a re-cast copy?
In the modelling community, resin kits are also commonly found under search terms such as “GK” and “garage kits.” LeePlus Hobby uses the more precise term “resin kit” throughout its catalogue, with a focus on original studio-produced kits rather than re-cast copies.
An original studio cast is produced from the studio’s approved master and tooling, either directly by the studio or through its approved production process. This describes the source of the production cast, not the design-development method. A design may be created from the ground up through 3D modelling, or developed through comprehensive 3D re-engineering and deep optimization before the final parts are cast in resin. A re-cast copy uses parts from an existing finished kit as the masters for another set of molds.
That extra generation can reproduce the original kit’s seams and imperfections while also introducing softer details, slight dimensional changes, new bubbles, mold shift, or additional warping. On mechanical resin kits, even a small loss of edge definition or alignment can create much more work across armor, joints, paired parts, and weapons.
Buying the original also supports the sculptor and studio that designed and developed the kit. It provides the best chance of receiving the intended parts, decals, instructions, and release-specific details with clear product provenance.
Are all re-cast copies visibly poor?
No. Re-cast copy quality varies, and some copies can look acceptable in sales photos. The problem is inconsistency and lack of traceability. Photos may not show softened recessed detail, mismatched paired parts, internal voids, or fit problems that only become obvious during pre-assembly. In some cases, the seller may also use images of the original studio product rather than the actual copy being supplied.
Can an original kit be identified by resin color or hardness?
Not reliably. Resin formulation, color, weight, and hardness can change between studios and production batches. A better check is the full chain of information: a clearly identified studio and release, packaging and printed material appropriate to that release, a matching parts list, and a seller who states the product’s source without vague terms such as “factory version.” A logo or box by itself is not conclusive because packaging can also be copied.
Does “original studio cast” guarantee a perfect kit?
No. Resin kits are commonly produced in smaller batches than injection-molded plastic kits. Minor seams, gates, pinholes, and warping can still occur in an original cast. The difference is not a promise of perfection; it is that the parts come from the intended production source and should preserve the studio’s design and detail as faithfully as its casting process allows.
What is the difference between a full resin kit and a conversion kit?
The main difference is whether the project requires a separate plastic model.
Full resin kit
A full resin kit is designed as a complete standalone model. It normally includes the main resin components required for the finished build and does not need a Bandai plastic base kit unless the product page specifically states otherwise.
Depending on the release, it may also include water-slide decals, clear parts, photo-etched metal parts, masking sheets, a display base, or other accessories. Always check the individual product’s Item Details before ordering.
Browse our Full Resin Kits.
Resin conversion kit
A resin conversion kit replaces or adds exterior parts to a specific plastic model. It usually depends on the compatible Bandai kit for its inner frame, joints, weapons, or selected structural components.
The required base kit is not included unless clearly stated. Compatibility is specific: a conversion kit designed for one MG Ver.Ka or Ver.2.0 release might not fit another version.
Browse our Resin Conversion Kits.
Which format should you choose?
Choose a full resin kit if you want a complete standalone resin project and are comfortable working with a larger number of resin parts. Choose a conversion kit if you want to transform a compatible plastic model while retaining part of its internal engineering.
What should I inspect before starting the build?
- Count every part against the parts list before removing gates
- Separate and compare left/right or otherwise paired components
- Check thin parts, weapon barrels, large armor panels, and load-bearing joints for breaks or deformation
- Confirm that decals, clear parts, metal parts, and other included accessories are present
- Photograph any suspected missing or defective area before sanding, drilling, gluing, or priming it
Keep the packaging, parts list, and casting gates until the inventory and first test fit are complete.
What preparation does a resin kit normally need?
A typical build includes gate removal, seam cleanup, careful test fitting, drilling and pinning, filling small imperfections, correcting minor warping, surface preparation, priming, and painting. Clean the parts as needed before priming, using a method appropriate to the resin and any studio instructions.
Standard plastic cement does not bond cured resin. Cyanoacrylate adhesive or two-part epoxy is normally used, with pins added where joints carry weight or need precise alignment.
How are minor warping and pinholes handled?
Minor warping can often be corrected gradually with warm water or carefully controlled warm air. Reshape the part gently, check alignment frequently, and allow it to cool in the correct position. Excessive heat can soften fine detail or deform the part further.
Small surface pinholes can usually be filled during surface preparation with an appropriate modelling putty or surfacer. Large voids, missing geometry, or severe distortion are not the same as routine pinhole repair and should be documented before modification.
What safety precautions matter when working with resin?
Avoid creating or breathing airborne resin dust. Wet-sand when practical, use suitable particulate respiratory protection, wear eye protection, and keep the work area ventilated and clean. Collect sanding residue instead of blowing it around the room, and wash your hands after handling dust and finishing materials. Follow the safety instructions for every adhesive, putty, primer, paint, and solvent used in the build.
Are resin kits suitable for beginners?
Most mechanical resin kits are best suited to builders who are already comfortable with test fitting, sanding, filling, drilling, pinning, priming, and painting. A conversion kit is not automatically easier than a full kit: integrating resin armor with a plastic frame can require very precise adjustment. For a first resin project, a lower part count and straightforward structure are usually more helpful than choosing by size alone.